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Pancras
loved it!
This younger sibling of grazing pioneer Club Gascon is – much like its clientele – an exercise in studied chic. Backlit steps lead down to a double-height basement dining room bathed in warm tones. The look is all contrast (light & dark, curves & angles, wood & glass) & it’s matched by innovative cooking that balances textures & flavours. Recent highlights have included squid stuffed with bacon & crisp, colourful vegetables, & pan-fried sea bass with a tart, dainty ratatouille. Desserts end triumphantly with profiteroles, ginger ice cream & apricot sauce. Should the carte seem ‘on the expensive side’, fixed-price lunches are ‘always good value’. If you’re after privacy or intimacy, ask for one of the booth tables around the edge of the main dining room; alternatively, head for the stylish mezzanine lounge, which allows you to view those grazing below. South-west France features strongly on the wine list.